Written by @pikapikakitty!
The Elizabethan Era
Fashion
During the Elizabethan Era, everyone wanted to dress like royalty and the monarchy. Queen Elizabeth I’s look was iconic and trendsetting. However, Queen Elizabeth I also issued the Elizabethan Sumptuary Laws, which controlled fashion behavior and prevented dressing above one’s social class. Fashion choices were an indication of one’s social class (for example, only royals could wear clothing trimmed with ermine), which was extremely important during the Elizabethan Era. The Sumptuary Laws dictated the colors and fabrics that were allowed to be used.
Makeup
Makeup during Queen Elizabeth I’s reign focused on three main parts: porcelain white, clear, clean skin, rosy rouge, and small, red lips. In order to achieve this look, women resorted to many different materials and techniques. However, makeup during this time was quite harmful as well as heavily used; ceruse (white lead + borax, vinegar, or lemon juice) was used as the base for Elizabeth I’s white foundation, and vermillion (powdered red mercury) was used for red lips. There were also more natural, non-harmful materials ,such as egg whites, which were used to tighten skin and prevent freckles. Madder was used for blush, and for dying clothes as well. The heavily white skin exuded the idea of virginal purity that was crucial to Elizabeth I’s image, and the rouge gave life to her skin. The rouge was critical because during this time, the health of the monarch indicated the health of the nation.
The Georgian Era
Women's Fashion
Forget the corsets, panniers, and heavy brocade! Georgian Era fashion, influenced by the rise of neoclassicism, was marked by its simplicity, with thin fabrics and its ability to drape and flow while allowing the natural curves of the body to shine through. A new gown form was developed, called the chemise gown, which was made of thin, flowing cotton. This gown eventually was reformed and became known as the empire style gown. The Empire style gown remained in fashion in 1815 England, despite it going completely out of fashion in France. Common dress materials included muslin, gauze, and percale. Raw materials were often imported from the US and India to be manufactured in textile mills. Shawls and jackets came into fashion as well, since the thin material of dresses made it necessary to beat the cold. The parasol was a common accessor; it protected a lady’s skin from the sun; pale skin was highly desired. A method used to retain this pale skin was using strawberries and chervil water, which was believed to rid the skin of freckles and tans. Freckles and darker skin were associated with outdoor agricultural work, which was then associated with the poor and working class.
Men’s Fashion
Men’s fashion was a lot less complicated than women’s fashion during the Georgian era. Common clothes included a cutaway coat (with brass buttons), pantaloons, and a matching waistcoat. A white shirt was worn underneath, often made of linen and wrapped in a cravat. Cravats were laundered carefully and stiffly starched. In public, men wore hessian riding boots and conical riding hats. Overall, clothing in the Georgian Era became more individualistic, reflecting each person’s style and characteristics more than societal status as a whole.
The Victorian Era
Women’s Fashion
Queen Victoria supposedly regarded makeup as vulgar, and led the Victorian trend on lighter makeup looks. Victorian makeup moved away from heavy, painted, white-lead bases, which were replaced by zinc oxide powders. Tuberculosis, which was a serious epidemic during Queen Victoria’s reign, had symptoms that were considered beautiful, such as flushed cheeks, pale skin, and bright eyes. Women used light makeup to emulate these subtle, “natural” looks. While makeup became much more subtle in the Victorian era, dresses picked back up on their size, weight, and detail. Gowns had sloping shoulders, low-pointed waists, and bell skirts, with corsets (that reached the knees) and layers of petticoats underneath. Pantalettes later replaced petticoats, as the size of skirts had expanded. Opera length gloves and a shawl completed the typical Victorian outfit. Hats and bonnets were also worn. Sewn clothing began to rise in popularity with the introduction of the sewing machine. In the 1880’s, deep red and a variation of blue became the two primary colors for gown material. In the 1890’s, dresses no longer became tight-fitted, and bustles and crinolines were out of fashion.
Men’s Fashion
Men’s fashion did not change drastically compared to women’s fashion. Men continued to wear coats, vests, and hats as suitable public wear, though their waist-cinching jackets were replaced with easy-breathing loose jackets. However, men wore corsets as well during this time. Hats and colors were used as an accessory that changed with every occasion. Colors were adjusted for the tone of the suit. Other accessories included ties, pocket watches, walking sticks, and gloves. Lace also saw a comeback during the late Victorian era, with braid trimming used with lace becoming common in the 1850's.
The 1930s
Makeup
The classic, Hollywood, 1930’s look rose in popularity during this time. Red lips, glossy eyelids, and thin, arched eyebrows were the most desired characteristics; ; astringents such as orange blossom water were used to achieve this look. The eyebrow pencil became available to the mass market, where women could achieve the thin, arched eyebrow. False eyelashes and mascara also became popular. The three-step makeup routine rose in popularity as companies realized that giving their customers a routine made the customers more inclined to buy from their company. Companies also began to bring celebrities and socialites into their advertising as Hollywood and marketing came together in this decade; this was an early form of influencer marketing. Makeup became “acceptable” during this time period; people would talk about what they wore, what brands they used, etc. Tans and sun-kissed rouge rose in popularity for the first time in history; during the interwar era, a sporty lifestyle became popular, and the sunkissed, tanned look replaced the pale, porcelain-white skin that had been prized in the centuries before.
Clothing
Clothing in the 1930’s resembled much of what the 2000’s would view as formalwear. Women wore slender dresses, and men wore formal suits. People turned increasingly to Hollywood stars and other celebrities for trending clothing.
The 1940s
Makeup
The 1940s - specifically, the WWII years - had a huge impact on makeup. Makeup became a symbol of morale, and was encouraged by the British government, as well as widespread magazines such as Vogue. Makeup for The classic 1940s look consisted of powdered skin, long lashes, and bright red lips. Makeup was very hard to get hold of during this time, due to the luxury tax, and the requirement that makeup producers produce 25% of what they produced pre-war. People often made their own makeup (and makeup application tools), such as using burnt corks for mascara and brow coloring, as well as produce such as beets for rouge. Red lipstick became a symbol of strength, a well-kept look, unity, and even anti-Hitler. It was rumored that Hitler hated makeup, specifically red lipstick, which led the popular bright red lip to be a symbol of the anti-Hitler and anti-Nazi cause.
Clothing
Clothing became simpler and conservative to help reserve labour and materials for the war effort. Showy and expensive clothing were looked down upon. Uniforms rose in popularity during this time across all professions, from civilian work to the cause at the warfront; in 1940, Vogue began advertising clothing with military touches. In 1942, the newly invented nylon stockings (courtesy of the USA) became rationed, since nylon began going towards the war effort, which led women to use makeup to draw on themselves to imitate the look of stockings. Coupons were also available for stockings, but there were not always enough. Liquid stockings eventually became readily available. Stockings were the only “accessory” available; hats, gloves, and girdles became too expensive or simply unavailable due to war rations.
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